Bwindi Impenetrable Forest - Uganda

Continuing the saga of our 8-night safari in Rwanda and Uganda, here is the last installment.
We had one more gorilla trek in Rwanda before heading across the border to Uganda. This final trek in Rwanda was to visit the 17 member Kwitando family. We departed in a downpour, but by the time we reached our family, the skies had cleared, giving us some good photo opportunities.

Here, we watched family groups playing together and grooming each other. It was so much fun watching a baby rolling around and doing somersaults!

Our last trek, in the Bwindi National Park in Uganda, was the one I had been most nervous about. This area has the reputation of being the most difficult trekking because of thick vegetation and steep terrain. After our first hike (see Day One gorilla-trekking), this was a piece of cake. We did travel uphill, at a steep incline, for about 40 minutes before reaching the Rushegura family. We followed their trail of banana peels to their resting spot. This one was our best viewing yet! We observed a huge Silverback, many mothers and several babies eating and playing. It is fascinating to be able to be so close and just watch them in their natural habitat. Our one hour allotted time flew by, and it was time to leave them.

We spent some time shopping in the small village next to the park. You can pick up local handicrafts, basketry, and T-shirts with the saying: Mzungus in the Mist. I found this one particularly funny, mzungu being the term for white person!

We drove to Bwindi, a six hour drive from Kigali. The border formalities did not take long. U.S. citizens must purchase a visa upon arrival in Uganda, current price is $50.00 per person. No visa is required for entry into Rwanda. Uganda offers spectacular scenery, hiking, treks to the endangered Golden Monkeys, big game safaris and more!

For more information about Rwanda, Uganda or adventure travel, call me at 248-288-9600
http://www.beekalt.com/

Day 2 - Gorilla Trekking

We started out a little stiff from the activities of the day before, but excitement was building as we KNEW we would see the gorillas today! The Warden assured us we would have an easy group to reach.

We were assigned Group 13, so named for being the 13th habituated gorilla family in the park. Our driver dropped us at the starting point. We had to cross an extremely muddy and wet field. The kind of mud that threatens to pull your boot right off your foot when you sink into it! We scampered over the rock wall into the edge of the forest. We only walked about 15 minutes when, in the distance, I saw a large gorilla swinging from a vine - just like in the movie Tarzan!

Our guide gave us our instructions: leave your belongings with the porters, only carry your camera, no flash photography, talk softly, and do not point (which is really hard NOT to do!). He informed us that he would make sounds that basically told the animals "we come in peace".

We followed our guide, Olivier, who showed us the Silverback, the largest, oldest male leader of the family. We actually got to see two Silverbacks that day. The second one had come over to try and woo away a female and perhaps start his own family. There was a lot of chest-beating and grunting going on between the two. I actually got a fright when the biggest guy stood up and barreled right toward us. He ended up walking past without a second glance. I think my heart stopped beating for that split second. I quickly regained my composure to follow him to a clearing, where he easily pulled down small trees, stripped the branches of their leaves, and stuffed them into his mouth. We also got to observe mothers, babies and juveniles during our all too brief visit. The one hour allotted time went by very quickly.

It was a very special experience and one that will stay with us for a long time. Gorilla-trekking allows proximity to the animals that you don't normally get on a regular safari. Most people who are fit and able to walk over uneven surfaces can do it.

If you would like more information on gorillas or safaris, give me a call!

Bee Kalt Travel 248-288-9600

Day One - Gorilla trekking

Did I say this was my dream trip? I was wondering "what could I have been thinking?", as our ranger machete'd his way through the thick forest, creating what was supposed to be a trail. We dutifully followed, stepping over logs, ducking under branches, and trying not to let our ankles get caught up in the twisted vines on the forest floor. It was the adventure of a lifetime!

Our group that day was composed of 7 people, ranging in age from 28 to 76. We were a tough bunch, determined to see our gorilla family, the Hirwa group. This gorilla family lives in the Volcanoes National Park in Rwanda. The park is reached by a 2 1/2 to 3 hour drive from the capital city of Kigali. We traveled with the top-notch tour operator, Volcanoes Safaris. They will plan out your itinerary, lodging, and secure the gorilla permits for you. You must buy the permits ahead of time as they are very limited. Each day, you show up at the National Park office, you are divided into groups (maximum 8), and assigned a gorilla family for the day.

We had to drive about 15 minutes to get to our starting point. After a 30 minute walk through some farmland, we reached the edge of the forest. We had to scramble up a rock wall, cross a log bridge, and into the jungle we went! The scenery was incredible, as we climbed higher, reaching a bamboo forest. The trackers carefully follow the clues to find the gorillas, torn branches, scattered remains of the soft bamboo shoots that the gorillas love to eat.

Each of us had hired a porter, a necessity as far as I am concerned. They are local men who will carry your backpack, camera, and help you up the mountain if you need it. The current going rate for a porter is $10 for the day. My porter that day, Samway, was a life-saver. He held tight to my hand as I slipped in the mud, going uphill. He would position himself in front of me when going downhill to prevent me from sliding too far. Did I mention it was very muddy?

We hiked and we hiked. Uphill. Downhill. Across the face of a cliff, clinging to branches, and roots, and anything that would give us a handhold or foothold, silently praying that the rootball would not give way! Alas, our dreams were not to be realized that day. We were out for 10 hours, without ever catching up to our family. Disappointing? A little. Actually, I think most of us were just glad to have returned without serious injury. We were told by the Warden that this NEVER happens (not seeing the gorillas). We set a record! But, not to worry, there were more chances ahead.

We returned to the lovely Virunga Lodge that evening, wet, muddy, and very tired. The wonderful staff whisked our muddy boots away, to be returned to us the next day looking brand new again. I don't know how they clean them so well!
The lodge is set high on a mountain top, overlooking valleys, farms and two volcanic lakes. It is a spectacular setting. The eight rooms are very comfortable and rustic in decor. They have running water, flush toilets, and use solar power for energy (read: it's dark in the rooms, forget about makeup.)

The meals were always fresh and delicious. Meals, beverages, laundry and even massages are all included in the price of a stay.

Call me to ask more about gorilla-trekking, or to book your next trip to Africa today!
Bee Kalt Travel 248-288-9600
www.beekalt.com



To be continued....

Wild times in Africa

I am writing from Africa, having arrived on the continent yesterday. My purpose of this trip is two-fold, first to go gorilla-trekking in Rwanda and Uganda (my dream trip), and then to attend the largest African travel trade show in Durban, South Africa.

I flew from Washington DC, direct service to Johannesburg, South Africa. The lie-flat seats were very comfortable and made the 15 plus hour trip relatively painless. To be fair, I have also done the same flight in coach, a little more painful, but definitely worth the discomfort! I spent one night at the fabulous Westcliff hotel located about 30 minutes drive from the Jo'burg airport (we in the know call it Jo'burg!). The rooms are spacious with beautiful marble bathrooms. The staff is warm and welcoming. Dinner at the Polo Bar was just what I needed after a long flight - a tapas-style menu with many offerings of small plates. I enjoyed the shrimp fritters and beef stir-fry, along with, I think, the best mojito I have ever had!

Off to bed to get a good night sleep before I met up with Robin Binckes, award-winning tour guide on the history of South Africa. Robin picked me up at the Westcliff early in the morning to give me as much of a tour of Soweto as he could in our limited time together. He is an excellent teacher and story-teller, and I learned so much about the complicated history of this nation. I highly recommend a tour with Robin if you are at all interested in Apartheid or the history of South Africa.

I am now at the beautiful Fairmont Norfolk hotel in Nairobi. This historical property maintains its grandeur with a history of hosting kings and presidents. The rooms do not disappoint, but my stay is all too brief, as I head out in the morning for Rwanda to trek to the mountain gorillas. There are only about 750 mountain gorillas left in the wild. They live between Rwanda, Uganda and the Democratic Republic of Congo. Currently it is only safe for tourists to do these treks from Rwanda and Uganda. You must buy a permit to enter the National park as the government keeps very tight controls for the gorilla's protection. You are divided into groups of no more than 8, and assigned a gorilla family to trek to. Once you reach your family, you may only stay one hour to observe.

Stay tuned for more updates as I will post as I am able!

A Week In...London

If you've had enough of sun and sand, a big city can provide the perfect Spring Break location! I've just returned from London, England, having spent a week there with my teenage daughter. We arrived home, limping, from all of the walking. We wanted to see as much as we could in the time we had. This included visits to the National Gallery for the fine art masterpieces, the British Museum for the mummies, the Tate Modern for a little bit of everything in the contemporary art world ( a word of warning: heed the sign when it says "this room contains explicit material", especially when traveling with your teenager!) The wonderful thing about all of these museums is that they are free to visitors, although a donation is requested.

We took a day trip out to Windsor Castle and Oxford, expertly arranged by our Virtuoso on-site, Sincerely Paul. Paul provided us with a knowledgeable, friendly driver/guide who made the visits so much more enjoyable than if we were just reading out of a guidebook. We had fun visiting the Christ Church house at Oxford which served as the Hogwarts arrival hall in the Harry Potter films.

The sheer number of shows in the West End can leave you dizzy trying to decide what to see. We thoroughly enjoyed two musicals: Billy Elliott and Blood Brothers. One made you laugh and one made you cry, but both were very entertaining.

And I couldn't have visited this fair city without stopping in to see some of my favorite hoteliers. There are many luxury Virtuoso hotels in London, and they all have something different to offer. If you prefer small and homey, the Egerton House would be for you. Fancy and formal? Head to the Ritz. Can't live without a year-round swimming pool? The Berkeley would fit the bill. We stayed at the Stafford, perfectly located on a quiet street along the edge of Green Park. The rooms and suites are beautifully decorated with every modern convenience. The hotel is lucky to have Frank, the award-winning concierge, who knows all of the ins and outs of the city, and can get you into the hottest restaurants. We were so busy touring the city I barely had time to use the nicely-appointed fitness center.
I have to make special mention of The Goring hotel. They are celebrating their 100th anniversary this year. This family-owned hotel, located just behind Buckingham Palace, has the nicest staff around. The rooms are stately and grand, and it's the only one with its own private garden.

We offer special rates and amenities at all of these hotels such as complimentary upgrades, complimentary breakfast and more, only for our clients. Please contact us to book your next stay and be treated like a VIP in London!

Call 248-288-9600 or toll-free 1-800-284-5258
www.beekalt.com

A Weekend In... Phoenix

I have found the perfect romantic retreat in the Royal Palms Resort and Spa in Scottsdale, Arizona. Camelback mountain provides the backdrop to this tranquil resort conducive to romance and quality time spent together. The cozy rooms are decorated with a Southwestern flair. The casitas and bungalows are scattered throughout the property, which feel like a world away, with its Spanish Colonial architecture, tucked behind high walls. The Montevista spa suites include your very own steam shower and overlook a lovely courtyard filled with flowers and fountains. Many of the rooms have fireplaces and private patios. Take advantage of the fabulous spa while having a massage from a treatment room with views of the desert vistas.
It's no wonder that the Royal Palms is a very popular venue for weddings and other special events!
Book with us and receive these VIP amenities: an upgrade upon arrival based on availability, complimentary breakfast daily, $100 resort credit, and late checkout

Sanctuary Camelback Mountain is a terrific destination for couples or a getaway with a group of friends! Set on the north side of Camelback mountain in Paradise Valley, this resort has magnificent views from its mountain and spa casitas. I loved the private patios and the floor to ceiling windows in the spa suites. The re-vamped restaurant, Elements, is highly acclaimed by locals and visitors alike. The menu has an Asian flair with many healthful dining options. However, I couldn't help but be intrigued by the Kobe beef hot dog with creamy cheese sauce, in a pretzel bun. Luckily the fully-equipped fitness center offers every option to help you work off that lunch. A variety of complimentary fitness classes, hikes and activities are included in your stay. Don't feel like exerting yourself too much? Head for the spa and try one of their signature treatments. This retreat offers the ultimate in relaxation.
Your VIP amenities include: complimentary upgrade, continental breakfast daily, and a complimentary 30 minute massage!

The Phoenician is one of my favorite resorts in Scottsdale. Multiple pools, a waterslide, children's program, championship golf course, tennis and spa round out this playground for kids and adults alike. The newly refurbished Canyon suites offer an oasis of solitude and a bit more privacy than the main resort. Here, you have private check-in, concierge, and a whole host of complimentary services: high speed internet access, transportation to nearby shopping, access to the fitness center, valet parking and wine tastings in the lobby each afternoon!
The Centre for Well-being provides the latest in cardiovascular fitness equipment and classes. The spa has a skylit meditation room for relaxing before or after a body or skincare treatment.

When booking with us, you will receive these VIP amenities: an upgrade upon arrival based on availability, full breakfast daily, welcome amenity of fresh fruit, $50.00 food and beverage credit and complimentary access to the fitness center ($20 value per person per day!)

Call us to book your next getaway!
248-288-9600 or toll-free 1-800-284-5258
www.beekalt.com

Summer vacation

Spring is here and it's time to start making those summer vacation plans. Ideas? Barging through France, Bicycling through Italy, Whale-watching in Alaska, Swimming with the sea lions in the Galapagos.

Shari and Mark Kalt will be your Virtuoso Voyager Club hosts on the Seabourn Odyssey sailing July 10 - 17, 2010. We invite you to join us aboard! This all-inclusive, luxury ship holds only 450 passengers, but offers amenities of larger ships such as four restaurants, six open bars and lounges, and two outdoor pools. Our itinerary sails from Istanbul to Athens, giving you the chance to explore the important historical sites of ancient Turkey and the beautiful islands of Greece. The ship has a watersports marina, from which you can waterski, kayak, swim or take a banana boat ride! Cap off the afternoon with champagne and caviar, not served poolside, but served IN the pool by your waiters in full uniform! It doesn't get more decadent than that!

Our clients will receive the Voyager Club amenities of a complimentary cocktail party and a complimentary shore excursion in the port of Bodrum, Turkey. Call us for the latest specials and 2-for-1 pricing!

Call our travel specialists to book your summer vacation today!
248-288-9600
http://www.beekalt.com/