Did I say this was my dream trip? I was wondering "what could I have been thinking?", as our ranger machete'd his way through the thick forest, creating what was supposed to be a trail. We dutifully followed, stepping over logs, ducking under branches, and trying not to let our ankles get caught up in the twisted vines on the forest floor. It was the adventure of a lifetime!
Our group that day was composed of 7 people, ranging in age from 28 to 76. We were a tough bunch, determined to see our gorilla family, the Hirwa group. This gorilla family lives in the Volcanoes National Park in Rwanda. The park is reached by a 2 1/2 to 3 hour drive from the capital city of Kigali. We traveled with the top-notch tour operator, Volcanoes Safaris. They will plan out your itinerary, lodging, and secure the gorilla permits for you. You must buy the permits ahead of time as they are very limited. Each day, you show up at the National Park office, you are divided into groups (maximum 8), and assigned a gorilla family for the day.
We had to drive about 15 minutes to get to our starting point. After a 30 minute walk through some farmland, we reached the edge of the forest. We had to scramble up a rock wall, cross a log bridge, and into the jungle we went! The scenery was incredible, as we climbed higher, reaching a bamboo forest. The trackers carefully follow the clues to find the gorillas, torn branches, scattered remains of the soft bamboo shoots that the gorillas love to eat.
Each of us had hired a porter, a necessity as far as I am concerned. They are local men who will carry your backpack, camera, and help you up the mountain if you need it. The current going rate for a porter is $10 for the day. My porter that day, Samway, was a life-saver. He held tight to my hand as I slipped in the mud, going uphill. He would position himself in front of me when going downhill to prevent me from sliding too far. Did I mention it was very muddy?
We hiked and we hiked. Uphill. Downhill. Across the face of a cliff, clinging to branches, and roots, and anything that would give us a handhold or foothold, silently praying that the rootball would not give way! Alas, our dreams were not to be realized that day. We were out for 10 hours, without ever catching up to our family. Disappointing? A little. Actually, I think most of us were just glad to have returned without serious injury. We were told by the Warden that this NEVER happens (not seeing the gorillas). We set a record! But, not to worry, there were more chances ahead.
We returned to the lovely Virunga Lodge that evening, wet, muddy, and very tired. The wonderful staff whisked our muddy boots away, to be returned to us the next day looking brand new again. I
don't know how they clean them so well!The lodge is set high on a mountain top, overlooking valleys, farms and two volcanic lakes. It is a spectacular setting. The eight rooms are very comfortable and rustic in decor. They have running water, flush toilets, and use solar power for energy (read: it's dark in the rooms, forget about makeup.)
The meals were always fresh and delicious. Meals, beverages, laundry and even massages are all included in the price of a stay.
Call me to ask more about gorilla-trekking, or to book your next trip to Africa today!
Bee Kalt Travel 248-288-9600
www.beekalt.com
To be continued....
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